Antique Table Restoration!

A couple of close-ups of some of the damage on the Federal extension table.

A couple of close-ups of some of the damage on the Federal extension table.

A few years ago, I purchased an antique Federal extension table from a Habitat for Humanity store for just a few hundred dollars.  The table folds up and then folds out expanding as needed like an accordion.  I really like the form and function of this table.  It fits perfectly in my living room corner and functions nicely as a side table.  During the holidays I regularly use it to accommodate extra guests during dinner.  This table however had seen much neglect with many scratches and damage to its finish.  Not only were there scratches, and white spots on the top of the table, but the table legs also had big scrapes and discoloration.  One of my new year goals was to refinish this table.    Here’s how I restored it.

A white spot on top of the table probably from something wet that was left on the table.   Here you can see the table folded up with the ends dropped down, notice the scratches on the table legs.

A white spot on top of the table probably from something wet that was left on the table.   Here you can see the table folded up with the ends dropped down, notice the scratches on the table legs.

Here is a picture of  the gel applied to the top of the table.  I also taped off the table feet covers to protect them.

Here is a picture of  the gel applied to the top of the table.  I also taped off the table feet covers to protect them.

First, I used some Citrus Strip (purchased from Lowes). I generously brushed on the citrus strip and let it sit for about 20 mins.  With a plastic paint scraper, I scraped all the way across the top of the table to remove the existing top coat.  Then using two full packages of super fine steel, I rubbed the whole table down from top to bottom removing the original stain and finish.   I put the table leaves in the table and made sure to apply the same process to the table leaves.  I also put the ends of the table down and applied stripping gel to creases of the table.  When scrubbing these items, it is pretty easy to tell the difference between the stain and unstained sections. because the old stain is generally a darker color.  It is important to make sure to completely remove all of the old finish.

Here's a pic of the table and legs covered with the citrus stripping gel.

Here's a pic of the table and legs covered with the citrus stripping gel.

After that step was complete, I used citrus strip wash to clean the table.   This step cleans the wood and gets it ready for the new stain application.  You want to make sure there is no orange residue left on the piece before applying your new stain.  I used disposable brushes to apply both of these applications because it was easy for clean-up and disposal.  I also wore some gloves to protect my skin while working. 

A few photos of the first application of gel stain still damp in a few places.  It is already looking a lot different.

A few photos of the first application of gel stain still damp in a few places.  It is already looking a lot different.

Once the wash dried I checked the table for any spots of old stain that I might have missed and gently sanded those sections with a sanding block.  Next, a rubbing with some cheese cloth to remove any dust particles.  With the piece clean and ready I applied the new stain, I chose a Minwax gel stain in rustic mahogany.    After the gel stain dried about 6 hours later, I checked to see if there were any areas that needed a second coat.   

 

This is how the top of the table and legs are looking now that the new stain has been applied.

This is how the top of the table and legs are looking now that the new stain has been applied.

Since the finish looks good, I was ready to apply a top clear coat to seal the finish.  I used a satin finish clear poly coat to seal and protect the wood from future wear.  I liked this because it isn’t too shiny.    Finally, I applied two coats per the directions.  Once these were dry, I let it dry for a few days, I finished with a thin coat of paste wax for some extra water protection.  Now I’m ready to enjoy my new table!

Accordion-Table-Make-Over
The after pic of the top of the table with the new finish.

The after pic of the top of the table with the new finish.

Take care,

Christina

A Baker's Rack Makeover

The new baker's rack.

The new baker's rack.

This week I thought I would share a makeover of my client's baker's rack.  In her breakfast nook, she had a baker's rack that she loved.  It also fit her space well.  There was just one problem.  The wood shelves were an orange oak colored stain.  In her now newly renovated gray/beige kitchen, the orange oak color wasn't the look she wanted.  I suggested that we strip the shelves of the old stain and re-stain them in her new color palette.  She loved the idea, and now it compliments her new design perfectly.  Check out these before photos of the orange oak shelving below.

Here is the before picture of my client's breakfast nook.  The original baker's rack is on the back wall with orange oak shelves.

Here is the before picture of my client's breakfast nook.  The original baker's rack is on the back wall with orange oak shelves.

Here is a close-up of the baker's rack before photo.

Here is a close-up of the baker's rack before photo.

The Process:

The process for the baker's rack makeover was pretty simple.  I thought I would share it with you today.  Here are the steps we followed:

First we set up the work space outdoors on a table in the yard.  We covered the table with a thick plastic sheet to protect it from any of the stripping product.  We used Citrus Strip paste, remover, rubber gloves, about 4 plastic bowls ( I suggest dollar tree for these) a package of very fine steel wool, a pkg of lint free white rags, white distilled vinegar, a mason jar, dark gray/black paint (we used SW Iron Ore), Minwax polyurethane sealant and some disposable paint brushes.  After we took the shelves and the wooden cabinet with drawers off of its iron support frame, we laid out all the pieces on our work table.  We emptied the Citrus strip paste in a plastic food container.  We brushed the citrus strip on all the pieces using our disposable chip brushes.  We made sure that a good amount of the paste was covering any place where the old stain needed to be removed.  

Next we let the paste sit for about 20 mins or so, (I recommend following the directions on the paste can). After the time was up, we used some of the very fine steel wool pads and with rubber gloves on hands rubbed all the pieces in the direction of the wood grain until the old stain was removed. We also used a metal spatula on a few spots that needed a little extra scraping.

(Once you begin to remove the old stain, it becomes pretty easy to see it lift off.)  With that step done we poured some of the Citrus strip wash remover liquid into another plastic container and generously brushed it all over the pieces.  The remover wash lifts up any remaining left over paste.  You just keep washing it on until the pieces of wood all seem paste free.

At this point, we let the pieces dry.  We let them dry over night, but you could just wait a few hours however long it takes for the piece to no longer be damp.  For our new stain, I suggested that we try a natural vinegar and steel stain that I had seen on Pinterest where you can age new wood.  You make this natural stain by filling a glass mason jar with a cup or two of vinegar and adding a piece of steel wool to the vinegar, then you let it set overnight.  The vinegar mixture will turn a brownish/grayish color.  The next time we met, my client had brushed all of our stripped pieces with the new vinegar steel mixture.  This left our pieces with a new brown stain that was more in our color tones, but still not quite the color we had in mind.  We wanted our pieces to have both a brown and a gray look to them and we wanted to be able to see the wood grain.

Sherwin Williams Iron Ore Paint color

Sherwin Williams Iron Ore Paint color

For our next step we purchased some gray paint from Sherwin Williams called Iron Ore. We put some paint about 2 cups in another plastic container. We thinned the paint slightly with a little bit of water, about three or four table spoons.  Next, we applied the gray paint and water mixture over our brownish stain and wiped the excess off with lint free rags. (This is a wipe off and on process. You don't want the water based mixture to sit on the wood in one place.)  We did one coat and loved the result.  My client wanted it a little darker look so we applied a second coat which gave it a more uniformed look.  Then we let all the pieces dry again.  

Side view of the baker's rack make over.

Side view of the baker's rack make over.

After the pieces dried, the final step was to apply a coat or two of clear satin polyurethane sealant to protect the pieces from any future water damage.  We used a Minwax poly top coat which was applied with a foam brush. We were also careful to make sure that our strokes when applying the top coat were even and continuous. This ensured that we didn't end up with any strange lines in the top coat finish. Once that was dry the pieces were re-assembled and placed back on the iron support.  The end result was a completely updated baker's rack.  The new baker's rack fits beautifully in my client's new kitchen.  

Sorry this pic is a little fuzzy, but you can get the idea of how the full make over came out.

Sorry this pic is a little fuzzy, but you can get the idea of how the full make over came out.

Here is the full shot of the remodeled breakfast nook.  You'll notice we moved the baker's rack at an angel, and the colors in the room were changed to reflect the client's taste and style.

Here is the full shot of the remodeled breakfast nook.  You'll notice we moved the baker's rack at an angel, and the colors in the room were changed to reflect the client's taste and style.

Take care,

Christina